This is a smart move. Most work on commission, that is after they are there for a while. All lots have 3 prices they go for. The 1st is of course the list price, 2nd is what they call their bottom price, the 3rd is what they will offer you when you say no and walk away, or call you back. YOU hold the cards NOT them. Never buy a car on your 1st visit.
I sell cars and there is some bad advice being given here. How about make a fair deal and let the salesman make a living for his work? Everyone says the car business is crooked and we are assholes ect. Well if you spend all day being jacked with over a few bucks and being a jackass to me why shouldn't I mess with you back? If you want to play games with us we can waste your whole day sitting at my desk while we "try" to get a better deal for you. Some of the scum of society today coming to my place of business to do what they learned on an Internet forum about buying a car. There are no fake taxes, second or other invoices. All information is disclosed in writing as required by law, and you can't just add stuff to the loan with out you saying yes. So many people with no clue how the business works that want to chime in. Pay the guy 250 and get the best deal. Ha. My job is worth more to me than whoring out another unit for your little money. That's not even an ethical way to do business. At the end of the day this rule still applies, do unto others as you would have them do to you. Respect my time and efforts with great service that I give and you will get a good deal on the car or truck you want not the one I want you to buy. Also you won't waste the whole day trying to buy a car.
Time is money.
Go to cars direct and find out the exact invoice.
If its March call and offer Invoice plus $500-1000 depending on the total price.
If it December call and offer Invoice minus about $500.
Once you settle on the price tell them on the phone (or email is even better) if it changes at all you will walk. On the phone ask for all fees and taxes. Plates, taxes, state inspections are legit. Other bs is not.
Have your financing done (I've used penfed before). If they can beat your financing great. If not you use yours with the already determined price.
Of course if you are buying something high in demand and/or just released forget about the above. My last two cars I sadly paid list price.
-Sean
Go to cars direct and find out the exact invoice.
If its March call and offer Invoice plus $500-1000 depending on the total price.
If it December call and offer Invoice minus about $500.
Once you settle on the price tell them on the phone (or email is even better) if it changes at all you will walk. On the phone ask for all fees and taxes. Plates, taxes, state inspections are legit. Other bs is not.
Have your financing done (I've used penfed before). If they can beat your financing great. If not you use yours with the already determined price.
Of course if you are buying something high in demand and/or just released forget about the above. My last two cars I sadly paid list price.
-Sean
I was in the "business" for a lot of yrs. Do NOT tell them you have a trade get the best price up front. Know what your car is worth $$. Then tell them you've decided to trade afterall. Otherwise your car will be factored into the original offer for much less than it's worth.
