Any carpenters in the house?

[ECS]

Going to opening day, you? Red's will be better this year for sure, they can't be any worse

I have some tickets but being a poor teacher it might be better to sell em and make the money back I spent on the 10 game package. IDK, I love opening day though

 

[Doug]

I think something like this would look cool set into the bar, roughly a third larger than a modern note. I estimate it $30 for a well worn note.

 

[Doug]

You could also get some well worn Civil war era paper, for not a huge price. Stuff like this would fit in well with the tokens, IMO.

Idea being to attract attention,right ?

 

[Doug]

it's actually going in a coffee bar i am opening, no alcohol served yet. but the coffee bar is going to be based around the illegal gambling period of 30-50's in Newport, Ky. back when the cleveland syndicate ran the casions.

i have tons of chips, napkins, matchbooks, etc from that time frame. it will be unique for sure. stop by if your ever in cincinnati

WW2 Military Payment Script was probably often used for illegal gambling. I don't know a lot about these, or even if this example is WW2, or not.

 

[Kornholio]

No offense to your profession, but I have made them before and I did not find it difficult....

No offense to you either, but unless you are an experienced woodworker, we are talking about 2 totally different products.

 

[woodypaige]

I was a finish carpenter for over 30 years. It shouldn't cost you no more than 2k for a bar of this size using any hard woods. Personally if you want to want use valuable coins, you should have the size of the coins router-ed out flush with the bar top. That way when the polyurethane finish is applied, it will look and feel like fine furniture.
The only downside is that anyone could cut them out with a knife.
I made a bar for my dad in 1980, and embedded articles and pictures of the Pgh Steelers 4 Super Bowls on the top. I put 25 coats of polyurethane on top and it still looks the same today as when I made it 28 years ago.

 

[djmatt]

25 coats?? wow

 

[Kornholio]

I was a finish carpenter for over 30 years. It shouldn't cost you no more than 2k for a bar of this size using any hard woods. Personally if you want to want use valuable coins, you should have the size of the coins router-ed out flush with the bar top. That way when the polyurethane finish is applied, it will look and feel like fine furniture.
The only downside is that anyone could cut them out with a knife.
I made a bar for my dad in 1980, and embedded articles and pictures of the Pgh Steelers 4 Super Bowls on the top. I put 25 coats of polyurethane on top and it still looks the same today as when I made it 28 years ago.

2K? Whos gonna build that for 2k? Maybe 15 years ago.

And get with the times, polyuethane is a shit finish. LMAO at 25 coats, you clearly don't know a thing about finishing.

 

[bigbet1234]

then what would you suggest finishing the top with otherthan polyuethane for the look i am trying to achieve?

2K? Whos gonna build that for 2k? Maybe 15 years ago.

And get with the times, polyuethane is a shit finish. LMAO at 25 coats, you clearly don't know a thing about finishing.

 

[1cheater]

This is actually what I do for a living. Been doing in for 9 years and do stuff on my own too. That epoxy you talk about doesn't usually have glass over it...it is poured on that thick (1/4" or more). It is about as indestructable finish their is...why they use it for bar tops.
AceDeuce says it is not that hard to do yourself...haha, try it. I don't doubt you could make a piece of shit for $1000...seen it before many times. I've seen the cabinetry of experienced carpenters and it is laughable. It takes years to learn this trade, and what's more minimum of 8-10K in tools to build something like a bar...that is if it's not a peice.

10' bar out of maple, off the top of my head (once again w/ seeing the drawings) I would personally do for around 4500-5K, a shop would have to charge more because of overhead.

If it were a simple design, I would charge less.

Hope this helps.

The answer is right there if you bothered to read people's replies to your question.. The guy know's what he's talking about.

 

[bigbet1234]

Thanks for pointing that out, I did read the reply, but that was yesterday, guess I forgot.

So, what makes epoxy better?

The answer is right there if you bothered to read people's replies to your question.. The guy know's what he's talking about.

 

[1cheater]

BB, here's a great site, excellent examples and informative.. Show's pics of what your looking for and gives a list of 3rd party contractors for hire.

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop.html

 

[1cheater]

 

[1cheater]

Korn, what would you recommend I use on commercial cherry veneered doors? I use to use polyurethane, works good, but scratches easily. I now use the high build polly, works somewhat better. Just wondering if there's a product out there that holds up well to abuse that these doors get. Is there an Epoxy coating for this type of situation that's highly scratch resistant?

 

[WVU]

my brother has a 32 foot cabin cruiser and we embedded old maps in poly on his counters and his table. It looks very cool. The coating aged the maps perfectly

 

[Kornholio]

Korn, what would you recommend I use on commercial cherry veneered doors? I use to use polyurethane, works good, but scratches easily. I now use the high build polly, works somewhat better. Just wondering if there's a product out there that holds up well to abuse that these doors get. Is there an Epoxy coating for this type of situation that's highly scratch resistant?

I'm guessing you have homowner products available to you. I was talking about industrial finishes. Epoxy would not be good finish for doors. In fact it is an ugly ass finish but it is about the only thing to use on bar tops because it is so durable and thick.

I would suggest you use a commercial product if they will sell to you. Post Catalyzed Water white Conversion Varnish is what I use for doors. Its durability blows away any poly...unless it is a 2K post cat poly, but that is very tricky to use and extremely expensive. It requires a sealer and strict recoat windows, and a pot life of 2 hours. I hate using it but it is extremely durable, and for a large part an exterior finish. Even a high build precat lacquer would be a better finish than poly.

But, All these finishes must be sprayed on, so if you can't spray I don't know what options you really have other than poly or wipe on varnishes honestly.

 

[1cheater]

I'm guessing you have homowner products available to you. I was talking about industrial finishes. Epoxy would not be good finish for doors. In fact it is an ugly ass finish but it is about the only thing to use on bar tops because it is so durable and thick.

I would suggest you use a commercial product if they will sell to you. Post Catalyzed Water white Conversion Varnish is what I use for doors. Its durability blows away any poly...unless it is a 2K post cat poly, but that is very tricky to use and extremely expensive. It requires a sealer and strict recoat windows, and a pot life of 2 hours. I hate using it but it is extremely durable, and for a large part an exterior finish. Even a high build precat lacquer would be a better finish than poly.

But, All these finishes must be sprayed on, so if you can't spray I don't know what options you really have other than poly or wipe on varnishes honestly.

Hmmmm, can't be rolled with a sponge roller? that sucks...I hate Polly, I know it sucks, but it's what I'm stuck with cause taking down a 150 lb door and transporting to and fro a shop is not cost effective for what we get to do them.... I do them, sand them down completely with an orbitul attached to a vacum (off fucking hours) stain/Polly 3 coats and come back the next day and find scratches... They pay, but I'm getting sick of sanding and poison...

Short story, I refinished 2 elevator cabs a couples months ago. Stripped, sanded my balls off (Cherry) 3 coats high build, put 200 hours into it. Their cost per elevator was around 7k they could have just replaced the would for 8k and got brand new wood, but noooooo...This company is a bunch of jack asses..

 

[buddyboy]

http://store.creative-wholesale.com...Default.aspx?SortField=Free3+DESC,ProductName

do a couple practice tops first, with junk chips and plywood.

glue down the chips b4 you pour, or else they'll float a round on ya.

after a few practice tops, you'll know whether you can handle it or if it's worth the money to hire someone.

old bowling ally floors make great bar tops

good luck

 

[betedgeonly]

2K? Whos gonna build that for 2k? Maybe 15 years ago.

And get with the times, polyuethane is a shit finish. LMAO at 25 coats, you clearly don't know a thing about finishing.

I have o disagree with you on this. 1. If he built by himself and the 2grand was just for labor and not material included, his price would be excellent. Depending on the materials, coins not included, the material could range from 800.00 to 1,800.00.u.s.d. Polyuethane is not a shit product at all if applied properly. It would just take longer to apply instead of an epoxy, doing 25 coat's. Didn't you say that you are a rough carpenter anyway's?:think2:


beo

 

[aceduecetrey]

Betedge and Korn- I will defer to you guys and your knowledge, but all I am saying is I built an extension to my bar and did not find it hard. I did have help from a pretty handy guy.....